Zinsser Asia Pacific FAQ Primers

FAQ Primers

Topic - Surface Preparation

Problem:
I wish to paint the glossy surfaces around the house I am renovating to change & revamp the colours. I have tiles in the bathroom, laminate in the kitchen and gloss painted doors and woodwork. How do I prepare these surfaces and which primer do I use?

Solution:
All glossy surfaces must be clean and free of grease to ensure adhesion of the primer. If the surface has an oily residue such as cooking fats on the laminate or soap scum on the tiles then use mineral turps to remove the stains then completely wash the entire surface to be painted with a solution of household ammonia and water. This ensures a clean surface and unlike other cleaners, that can leave an unseen residue resulting in adhesion problems. BIN is highly recommend for laminate surfaces, Bulls Eye 1-2-3 or Cover-Stain® are both great for tiles and wood work.

Topic - B-I-N for Exterior Spot-Priming

Problem:
I have used B-I-N on walls and trim in my house and it works great; can I use it on the exterior?

Solution:
Although B-I-N is an excellent primer for all interior surfaces, we recommend it only as an exterior spot primer for sealing or priming small areas or for sealing off knots, sap streaks, and stains. It’s unmatched for these special exterior applications. For whole-surface priming, we recommend Bulls Eye 1-2-3 or Cover-Stain®.

Topic - B-I-N Not Only for Stains

Problem:
I use B-I-N for spot priming stains. Which of your primers would you recommend for general-purpose interior priming?

Solution:
While B-I-N is great for blocking out stains, B-I-N also is the best and traditionally highest-performance all-purpose interior primer-sealer as well as an unmatched stain-killer. With its alcohol solvent, it’s the fastest-drying primer, drying hard in 45 minutes. It is ideal for all materials - new wood, drywall, cured plaster, Masonite®, as well as previously painted and stained walls, ceilings, woodwork, cabinets. And B-I-N tools clean up in inexpensive and environmentally advantageous household ammonia-water solution.

Topic - Covering Old Wallcovering

Problem:
The previous homeowners installed vinyl wallcovering over unprimed drywall and I can’t remove it. Can I hang new wallcovering over the old?

Solution:
Yes you can. Make sure the old wallcovering is firmly adhering to the wall. Clean it thoroughly with mineral spirits, followed by a solution of ammonia and water. Apply Shieldz and hang new wallcovering.

Topic - Cleaning B-I-N Sprayer

Problem:
What’s the best way to clean an airless sprayer whose nozzle is blocked with dried B-I-N?

Solution:
Since B-I-N is shellac-based, it cleans up in household ammonia and water. Let the parts soak in ammonia solution (3:1 water-ammonia) for a few hours, if necessary. On stubborn spots, use the ammonia undiluted. Alcohol, of course, will dissolve B-I-N, but if long soaking is required, it will evaporate unless you can devise some kind of closed system.

Topic - Staining Over B-I-N Primed Knots and Sap

Problem:
Will a penetrating oil stain work over B-I-N which has been used to spot-seal knots and sap streaks?

Solution:
No, B-I-N is a film-former. The stain will just lie on the surface. You must use an opaque, non-penetrating type stain. Such "solid stains", which are essentially “stain-colored” paints, forms films that adhere firmly to B-I-N.

Topic - Cure Time for Bulls Eye 1-2-3

Problem:
You say Bulls Eye 1-2-3 has great adhesion to any surface. Yet when I scratched at my paint that was applied over 1-2-3, everything came off, including the 1-2-3.

Solution:
Bulls Eye 1-2-3, like all latex primers and paints, requires 14 days to cure fully. During the curing period, it may not resist abrasion such as scratching from a fingernail or scraping with a scraper. But when fully cured, 1-2-3 adheres firmly, bonding the topcoat to the most hard-to-stick-to surfaces. It cannot be scraped off and won’t chip or peel.

Topic - 10 Degrees C. A Must For Water-Based Primers

Problem:
Why can’t you apply water-based primer or paint below 10°C. ? Can’t you just let it dry longer if time is no problem?

Solution:
It’s true that a latex paint or primer will eventually dry at low temperatures, but you will end up with a cracked film. 10°C. is the minimum temperature needed to get the right mix of good surface drying and proper film formation.

Topic - Tinting Zinsser Pigmented Primers

Problem:
Your data sheets say your white-pigmented primers -- B-I-N, Bulls Eye 1-2-3, Cover-Stain, and Shieldz -- can be tinted only to pastel shades. Why is this?

Solution:
These primers have high concentrations of titanium dioxide pigment necessary for superior hiding. The maximum quantity of universal tinting colours that can be added is 4 fluid ounces per 3.8 Litre can, and that is not sufficient for deep shades. However, tinting our primers usually means the topcoat will cover in one coat. You save both paint and time. In the case of Shieldz, the primer tints close enough to the background colour of the wallcovering to make seam splits unnoticeable, if they occur.

Topic - B-I-N Best for Water Stains

Problem:
Some brands of oil-based fast drying primers make label claims for sealing water stains. Are they as good as pigmented shellac for this application?

Solution:
Nothing -- including oil-based primers -- compares with B-I-N, our shellac based primer, in sealing off water stains. Its unique sealing power locks out stains from water and all other trace materials in the stain -- regardless of their nature or source. Many water stains are complex stains containing traces of mildew, rust, nicotine, and other organic or inorganic materials. The source of the moisture -- leak in roof, etc. -- must be eliminated, of course, and the surface allowed to dry thoroughly before applying B-I-N. If spot priming water stains on ceilings, be sure to use high-hiding ceiling paint to prevent “shiners,” or else prime the entire ceiling with B-I-N.

Topic - Killing Odours in Hardwood Floors

Problem:
The previous owner of my home was a pet lover. The hardwood floors are stained with pet urine and smell terrible. I know B-I-N seals in odours but would prefer to keep a clear finish on my floors. Any suggestions?

Solution:
It’s the shellac in B-I-N that forms an impenetrable barrier that blocks out odours. For a clear finish, use Bulls Eye Shellac--it also seals odours and is ideal for finishing floors. If the existing finish is in good condition, hand sand the affected areas with 100-grit paper and remove the dust with a tack cloth. Wipe the floor with mineral spirits to remove any wax, let dry, and apply the shellac. After 2 hours, sand lightly , remove dust and apply a second coat. The second coat will be hard enough to walk on in 4 hours.

Topic - B-I-N for Kitchen Cabinets (1)

Problem:
In redecorating my kitchen, I plan to paint the cabinets which now have a clear high-gloss wood finish. Should I prime with B-I-N?

Solution:
B-I-N is the best primer for the job. It has great adhesion to glossy surfaces and dries to a hard abrasion-resistant base coat in 45 minutes. (Other primers can require up to 14 days to cure completely .) Before priming, be sure to remove oily greasy deposits by wiping down the cabinet surfaces with mineral spirits, followed by washing with a solution of ammonia and water.

Topic - Oil or Latex Paints O.K. Over 1-2-3

Problem:
An elderly do-it-yourself'r tells me that you can’t topcoat a latex primer like Bulls Eye 1-2-3 with an oil paint. He says the only way to get good adhesion is latex primer/latex paint or oil primer/oil paint. Is he correct?

Solution:
Definitely not. You can put any kind of quality paint -- oil or water-based latex -- over 1-2-3. You can also put a latex paint, as well as an oil paint, over our oil-based primer, Cover-Stain or our alcohol based primer B-I-N. The old-timer’s “knowledge,” long out of date, probably stems from early latex paints which did not adhere well to existing oil paints. Always remember that all paints have a cure time which is greater than the drying time that gives the maximum adhesion to the surface or product being painted.

Topic - Only Spot-Prime Bathrooms with B-I-N

Problem:
Previously on bathroom with stained ceilings, I primed the whole ceiling with B-I-N, then applied an oil-based gloss or semi-gloss. With your new Perma-White, should I still use a B-I-N prime coat?

Solution:
Use B-I-N only for spot priming over stains. Perma-White is self priming so no other overall prime coat is needed. Use two coats of Perma-White for a ceiling that will be blister-proof and mildew-proof. Also the Perma-White has great hiding so there is no danger of the spot-primed areas flashing through.

Topic - Preparing Weathered Wood

Problem:
I have allowed the wood siding on my house to weather naturally and now I wish to paint it. What kind of surface prep should I do?

Solution:
Exterior wood that has not been painted will turn grey and degrade from the sun and weather. In as little as a month of weathering, a layer of dead wood fibres is produced which interferes with paint and primer adhesion. Correcting the problem requires sanding the surface until bright wood appears. For large areas, power wash the siding to remove the dead wood. Then apply a whole-house primer like Bulls Eye 1-2-3 or Cover Stain and two coats of high quality latex house paint for a long-lasting paint job.

Topic - Tinting

Problem:
Can I tint your primers with artist colours?

Solution:
Since some artist’s colours may be incompatible with our primers, play it safe and use only universal tinting colours. Adding up to 4 fluid ounces per gallon of primer will give you pastel to medium shades. Tinting usually means that the topcoat will cover in one coat. In the case of Shieldz Pre-Wallcovering Primer, tinting toward the background colour of the wallcovering makes seam splits, should they occur, virtually invisible.

Topic - B-I-N For Kitchen Cabinets(2)

Problem:
In redecorating a kitchen, should I use 1-2-3 or B-I-N for the cabinets?

Solution:
B-I-N gets the nod here because it resists abrasion as soon as it is dry whereas 1-2-3 needs up to a 14-day cure before it fully resists scratching or abrasion. Be sure to remove grease, waxes, and furniture polish with mineral spirits and rinse well before applying the B-I-N.

Topic - Bulls Eye 1-2-3 on Hard Surfaces

Problem:
I primed ceramic tile with Bulls Eye 1-2-3, let it dry thoroughly, topcoated it with a gloss enamel and let that dry. The next day I found I could scrape off the finish. I thought 1-2-3 had great adhesion. What’s the story?

Solution:
1-2-3 does have great adhesion but, like all latex coatings, it takes time to harden or cure. The time needed varies with humidity, etc. but the film should be at maximum hardness (and adhesion) in 2 weeks. After that time, the 1-2-3 undercoat -- and the topcoat, which will be virtually fused to it -- can’t be rubbed, scraped or chipped off by any normal means.

Topic - Paint Adhesion Test

Problem:
When painting walls in an older home, how can you be sure that an existing paint will take new coatings?

Solution:
By the adhesion test. This is on our label but bears repeating. With a razor knife, cut 6 lines about 1” long and 1/8 inch apart. Cut another series perpendicular to and across the first set. Do this in several spots. (In some cases, loose paint may pop off here.) Tape 1” of a 3” piece of Scotch® tape onto the grid, leaving a 2” “handle.” Rub the tape on the grid a few times. Wait a few seconds. Then quickly yank (don’t just pull) the tape off. If nothing adheres to the tape, the paint is sound and can be painted over. IF there’s a dusty residue, wash the walls with TSP solution to remove chalky paint. If the paint comes off down to the surface (or pops off in cross-hatching), remove all of it by scraping and sanding.

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